Castello di Gargonza, Tuscany

This hilltop castle served as a defensive outpost from the 12th century, and was reputedly visited by an exiled Dante Alighieri, but slowly lost its role as a medieval fort, becoming instead a rural hamlet occupied by a community of farmers. Post-war migration saw it all but abandoned, and left to ruin, but in the 1970s Roberto Guicciardini Corsi Salviati, the landowner, sought to turn around Gargonza’s fortunes, and began restoring it to its former glory – but as a historic hotel. It is now run by Guicciardini’s son, Neri.

Staying in the circular hamlet is like stepping back in time. The 13 medieval buildings, which cluster around a central courtyard, complete with well, retain heaps of character. Among them is a church (which still hosts weekly services) and an olive press (now a sitting room), while the crowning glory is a crenellated tower (unfortunately closed to guests for the time being). Each of the rustic apartment rooms feature original fireplaces and are named after a former resident (Boccino, for example, Pietrino, and Argentina, all of whom guests can read about in Roberto’s book about Gargonza, available in the reception). Just wandering around the place is a joy, and the hamlet’s lofty perch means stunning views in every direction.

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