The hotel’s Araz restaurant is worthy of special mention because during my visit it served up one of the best meals I’ve had in Budapest. Like the guestrooms, the dining room has a decadent livery, with golden discs hanging from the lights and a central pillar covered in a mosaic of gold and black – indeed, even the menu is printed on gold-coloured card (which makes it difficult to read, actually, but that’s a minor complaint).

The kitchen prepares a selection of really excellent French and Hungarian dishes; I can highly recommend the trio of goose liver, the wild boar stew with bread dumpling, and any one of the richly indulgent desserts (among them a Tokaj mousse and a dark chocolate ganache – it’s no wonder the restaurant is a popular spot for patisserie apprenticeships). And the service was as good as any I’ve experienced in Hungary, the waiter (dressed in black with a gold tie, of course) attentive, friendly and knowledgeable about the food – indeed, I was so impressed that I’m taking the unusual step of giving his name: Attila Csighy.

A three-course meal with wine is likely to cost around HUF9,000 (£21) per person; there’s also a six-course degustation menu with wine on Tuesdays (pre-booking only) and themed wine dinners every last Thursday of the month (again, pre-booking only). Buffet breakfast costs €15 per person, and there’s also a relaxed bar on the mezzanine above the lobby.