Get lost in the honeycomb streets of Malta's 'Silent City' Mdina
William Burgess Rising from the depths of the glistening Mediterranean between North Africa and Sicily is the Maltese archipelago, best known for its balmy weather, sprawling beaches, mesmerising tapestry of ancient temples and buzzing, historic cities.
Its jewel is the fortified settlement of Mdina, Malta’s thriving capital until 1530. Visible from most of the island, it sits 200m above sea level on a high plateau draped with rolling fields, crumbling stone walls and enormous defensive ramparts – an ancient citadel surrounded by mini metropolises.
Like many of the Med’s historic enclaves, the city embraces its long heritage, which dates back to 8th-century Phoenician settlers and was subsequently shaped by countless conquests by the Romans, the Byzantine Empire (its name an adaptation of the Arabic “medina”) and the Order of Saint John, among others.
Unlike much of the historic Med, however, it remains defined by the intimacies and quirks of a place otherwise left to its own devices – a “Silent City” now content to leave its days in the limelight firmly in the past. With fewer than 300 residents, a strict no-cars policy (except for locals), and an unspoken rule that keeps the city’s cobblestone labyrinth largely – respectfully – noiseless, it is a popular stop for visitors, yet remains perpetually tranquil.
Just a half hour drive from Valletta, Mdina makes a wonderful day trip, but better yet, stay in the city and devote a few days to its charms. Start beneath Mdina Gate, also known as Vilhena Gate, an 18th-century, baroque-style structure featuring two imposing lions and the Vilhena coat of arms which doubled as the entrance to King’s Landing in Game of Thrones.
From here, stroll along Triq Inguanez, where the only sound is the clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages and the bell of St Paul’s Cathedral. You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped back into medieval times, when the cathedral’s eponymous saint tried to convert the Roman governor, Publius, to Christianity.
Next pass by the Xara Palace Hotel, a 17th-century palazzo with a gleaming brass plaque stating: “The Maltese nobility assembles within the walls of this ancient palazzo to elect its committee of privileges” – before continuing along Triq San Pawl towards St Paul’s Square, where couples stroll hand-in-hand and cats slumber in the shade.
Marvel at the cathedral’s vibrant frescoes depicting the life of St Paul, and enter its neighbouring museum for religious artworks before losing yourself in the side streets.
These streets are the heart of Mdina, secreting bars and restaurants where white umbrellas shadow wooden tables, and locals pass the afternoon over a glass of wine while the smell of freshly baked bread drifts on the air. Do as the residents do at Don Mesquita Café & Wine Bar in Mesquita Square, which serves delicious fresh salads with ingredients harvested from local farms.
After lunch, take a leisurely walk to Bastion Square, or escape the heat at Palazzo Falson, a fascinating medieval house with an extensive armoury and collection of original Oriental rugs.
End the day at the award-winning Medina Restaurant which, set within an 11th-century Norman residence, is now one of the trendiest spots in the city, serving modern Mediterranean dishes like risotto with brined lemon and sautéed peppers, before finishing on a high with an amble through the winding alleys.
Under a dark, starlit sky, the chances are you won’t see another soul; just warm, glowing iron lamps casting long shadows across honey-coloured pathways, signalling that another day has passed in this eternal time capsule.
How to get there
British Airways flies from London to Malta from £106 return. Jade Braham was a guest of the Xara Palace Hotel (00 356 21 450560), which has rooms from £201
