Recently, I reported on the tremulous times faced by historic British footwear institutions such as Church’s and Tricker’s (despite the former being owned by Prada, it still manufactures in Northampton) and how the old codes of dress are being eroded. Trainers have become the absolute go-to in men’s footwear rosters and despite a classic pair of Oxfords or Derbys (my personal preference – more solid and chunky) being fine things and undoubtedly smart, it’s the more casual end of the spectrum that’s more likely to form part of daily dress today.

Enter the smart trainer – once a vague description for an elusive footwear solution, but now an official category of shoe that can be bought from tailoring outlets and traditional shoe makers alike.

Tom Chamberlin, editor-in-chief of men’s style journal The Rake, says: “The smart trainer began to emerge in 2019 as brands began to attempt to merge designs towards something more practical and yet still acceptable in the office. The Loro Piana Open Walk (a soft fit, smart trainer) became the du jour shoe of choice for an elite band and this trickled down. Now smart trainers have become emblematic of the financier in a way that the gilet used to be.” 

I’m reminded of a well-dressed magazine editor who, moving to work at a historic auction house, caused a stir in pairing a suit with trainers. This was more than a decade ago; no one would bat an eyelid today and, most likely, they wouldn’t be able to tell the difference because trainers and formal shoes have formed a happy hybrid of sorts. 

Yes, the likes of New Balance, Nike and Asics are vividly branded and decidedly sporty, and can look good with suits. But this new variant has evolved over the past five years applying the codes of smart shoes to trainers. As trainers became more shouty, obvious, chunky and “limited edition” in the upper echelons of high fashion an opposite proposal grew for men who liked the comfort of trainers, but didn’t want something overt, athletic or painfully “statement”. 

Luxury leathers and suedes on a trainer shape began to be applied, making them sophisticated rather than sports-centric, with the added “incognito” factor of adapting the colour of the rubber sole to match the upper, so that the overall effect didn’t immediately shout “trainer” and could slip fluidly into the average wardrobe with a suit, for example, or smart chinos, shirt and blazer. See the caramel and neutral-toned suede Tom Ford and Valentino trainers on the brattish Kendall Roy in Succession. 

Damien Paul, head of menswear at online retailer Matches Fashion, says: “Over the past few years we have seen a more sophisticated approach to trainers. They are less of a statement nowadays – they’ve become wardrobe staples that can be dressed up and down. It’s more about longevity than just trendy trainers nowadays, so we’ve seen a much cleaner, slimmer silhouette. The male customer is still focused on craft and investment, and expects that in his trainers too.” 

That parlays into how historic shoemakers have pivoted to apply their exceptional skills to trainers nowadays. Italian brand Tod’s crafts trainers with the same sensibility and handcrafted skill as its renowned Gommino loafers. At Church’s, handsome leathers from the same factories and suppliers as the leathers for its smarter shoes are employed in making its discreet, sleek trainers. 

Likewise, brands such as Grenson and Loake – both based in Northampton – have also introduced trainers as part of their product line-up. The behatted chap who used to patronise these venerable institutions for a stout pair of boots or polished Oxfords has moved on; the hat’s gone and a T-shirt’s replaced the shirt. When even the traditionalists have moved with the times, it’s time to step up. 

The fashion dos and don’ts

Colour and silhouette must work in harmony

“These factors are important,” says Chamberlin. “Your trainers should fit in with what you’re wearing clothes-wise in that respect.” Darker colours will blend in more, likewise a sole that matches the upper. “Never wear shoes that are shades lighter than your suit,” advises Chamberlin. 

Logo no-go

Avoid overt branding, which will draw the eye and is a hallmark of sports trainers. It won’t blend in with a grown-up, office appropriate wardrobe.

Think about your trouser cuff

“Any trainers should be worn with a wider trouser to keep proportions even,” says Chamberlin. “Keep to the same rules as with smart footwear.” 

Maintenance is essential

Trainer cleaners have proliferated with the rise in casual footwear, and many offer services via mail. They’ll keep your scuffed go-tos looking smart for longer, and any trainers heading into a corporate environment need to be spotless.

Try these...

Leather trainers, £119.95, charlestyrwhitt.com; Common Projects trainers, £247, cettire.com

Axel Arigato Clean 90 trainers, £200, matchesfashion.com; Southport trainers, £49, jonesbootmaker.com